Monday, November 03, 2008

Does St. Paul's have some Competition?!

Yesterday we (the Dickinson group) took a trip to Wicken Fen and Ely, roughly an hour, hour-and-a-half bus (or "coach," as the English say) ride. For those who don't know, a fen is similar to a swamp. Norfolk, the area in which Norwich is located, used to be comprised greatly of fens, but much of the water has been drained to make the ground suitable for agriculture. Wicken Fen is one of Norfolk's last remaining fens and is now preserved. The machinery that was used to pump water out of the fen--windmills--is now used to pump water back in. Unfortunately, the fen landscape isn't very exciting. It reminded me of the area right outside the Lincoln Tunnel on the Jersey side...except even less exciting than that. It was interesting, however, to hear how the local communities had responded to the draining of the fens. There was uproar when people arrived to drain the fens, and they were often met with violent resistance. Locals sabotaged the pumps at night so that water couldn't be removed. The fens are home to lots of biodiversity, and destruction of the area would result in severe damage to species populations that are only found in the fens. A slightly interesting...but not-so-exciting stop.

After Wicken Fen we got back on the bus for a shorter ride to the city of Ely, England's second smallest city, according to the Ely website. Ely's pride and joy is its gorgeous Norman cathedral, but we first stopped to visit Oliver Cromwell's house, the man responsible for the execution of Charles I. It wasn't too exciting. It was...a house.

The cathedral was unlike any we had seen yet. It really did tower above the rest of the city and was probably the highest point for a few miles in all directions. It was topped with rounded parapets and adorned with
intricate stonework. The inside of the cathedral was absolutely stunning. The ceiling seemed impossibly high and, I wasn't sure because it was difficult to see, seemed to be painted. The top end of the nave was octagonal and mind-blowingly beautiful. As the sun set (as it does around 3 or 4pm here) the light coming through the many stained-glass windows glowed upon the stone walls and columns.

Whilst exploring, I came across Lady Chapel, which was a huge empty chapel with an alter at the front. There were windows around the entire room so it was brightly lit, but because it was so empty it was eerily quiet and each footstep echoed off the walls and windows. I just sat in the chapel for several minutes and listened to the sound of nothingness. 

At 4pm, myself and three other Dickinson students, as well as our program director Professor Rudalevige, his young daughter Eliza and Professor Bartosik-Velez (who is visiting because tonight the 20th anniversary of the partnership between Dickinson and UEA will be celebrated) attended the service for All Saints Day. The chorus sang and we sat up near the alter where we could watch the entire service and be right beside the chorus. Hearing a chorus sing in a church adds a whole new dimension to the experience. It provides a soundtrack for the experience and makes it feel--well--more...godly. Towards the end of the service I took communion. I think this may have been the second time I have ever taken communion. I think I took it once before when I was much younger, but I have no idea where and when this would have been. I figured since I was at the service I might as well go all the way. Plus, the president of the cathedral said those who ate of "this bread" would live forever, so I thought it was at least worth a shot. 

By the end of the service (5:15pm) it was completely dark outside. There was no more beautiful light filtering through the windows, only darkness. There was dim lighting at floor-level, but look up and there was nothing but silent darkness. It was terrifying, intimidating and incredibly exciting. Never in my life have I experienced the peacefulness that I experienced in that cathedral. It almost makes me wish I was a believer in religion. Almost.

When all is said and done, I still would rather look at the brilliant exterior of St. Paul's Cathedral in London, but I would take a day spent in Ely Cathedral over a day spent in St. Paul's any day. What an experience.

To see some pictures, follow the links below:
***

Tomorrow is the presidential election! I have sent in my absentee ballot (after several weeks of anxious waiting for it to arrive--don't worry, I sent it in with plenty of time to spare) and done my duty to my country for the first time in my life! I wish I could be home to actually go to the polls, but I'm sure there will be many more elections in which I will get to wait in line for hours to actually cast my vote. Perhaps the absentee way is the better way...

I'm sure I don't have to remind anyone who may be reading my blog, but VOTE TOMORROW! VOTE TOMORROW! VOTE TOMORROW! Our generation has the opportunity to play a huge and important role in creating our nation's history and shaping the United States' reputation throughout the world, and I couldn't be prouder or more excited. 

Until next time, folks.

-ZMG

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